Cambodia: Siem Reap, Masterpieces of Carving

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WALK FLY PINOY:
Travel, Photography, Asia
www.walkflypinoy.com

We have seen quite a lot of the temples of Angkor but we have yet to experience what the first European explorers felt when they first came here, when only the locals knew about these beautiful temples, when everything was still untouched for the longest time. We had a taste of that in the middle of the jungle, in Ta Phrom.


Because it is in the middle of the jungle, you would see that in the temple nature is slowly creeping its way back. Trees grew in and around the walls and pillars of the temple. These must have been what the first explorers saw when they came here. With these buildings left abandoned, nature took back what was hers in the first place.



Those who have seen the movie "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider" would be familiar with this site. This is where they filmed the movie. And who can blame them. The trees here with its roots intertwining with the man-made structures are a site to behold.



Walking around the site, one would notice the cranes and other construction equipment around. Restoration is currently being done on the temple by, as with most of the temples of Siem Reap, a collaboration between the Cambodian authorities and some international NGO.


It was really admirable that not just Cambodians but also the rest of the world is seeing the cultural value of these sites. What I found most admirable, though, is the fact that in their restoration projects, it is not their aim to remove the trees from the temples. Yes, the trees are slowly destroying the walls and structures. But these people, they are trying to find a way to minimize the damage these trees do without having to take them out of the picture. They were clearly aware of the draw that nature had on these sites.


At this point, I should probably mention why this post is entitled Masterpieces of Carving. From what I read, this group of temples, the ones you will be seeing in this post, exemplifies the ancient Khmer builders' talent and determination. They preferred small temples, yes. But all the available walls and structures, they studded with carvings of astounding details.


Ta Keo

After getting out of the jungle, we headed out into one of the highest temples in Siem Reap, Ta Keo. Construction of the temple first started in 985 A.D. but it was never finished. Maybe this was why I thought the pillars on top looked different from the general design of the place. We did not spend much time here, though. Thunderclouds was forming that afternoon and our guide said we did not want to be standing on high places when thunder strikes.




Chau Say Tevoda


The next two temples we went to are right across each other. Both were smaller in size but very much characteristic of the temples in their group. The carvings in and around each temple are amazingly intricate and complex. Granted some have been the product of modern restoration but I am assuming they sought to be true to the originals.





Thommanon


Right across the street is this small temple whose interior and exterior are both lavishly decorated with very detailed carvings. When we came to these last two, the sun had almost set. So there was not much available light to be able to correctly photograph them. I discovered in hindsight though that even in little light, you would still be able to see the craftsmanship and diligence of the ancient Khmer people who slowly and painstakingly built them.




* More photos from Cambodia: Siem Reap, Masterpieces of Carving set available in my Flickr account: click here.

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Cambodia: Siem Reap, the Early Period

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WALK FLY PINOY:
Travel, Photography, Asia
www.walkflypinoy.com

Going into this whole Indochina experience, I knew Vietnam was just a pit stop. Saigon was rewarding in itself, but traveling to Indochina would not be complete without beholding the great temples of Angkor in Siem Reap, Cambodia.


We arrived in Siem Reap one rather gloomy afternoon. Upon leaving the beautiful Siem Reap International Airport, I found myself having to adjust, to change my pace. Coming from all the chaos that Saigon slammed at my face, it was the complete opposite what welcomed me in this little city at the heart of Cambodia.


We would be touring Siem Reap for three days. On our first day, we had to buy three-day passes, which cost each of us 40 US dollars. They take your picture and print your passes, which sort of becomes your ID during your entire stay in Siem Reap. Temple guards and caretakers would ask you to show them this ID from time to time. So take good care of it.


On our first day, we started off with the little temples, the early temples of Angkor. The first was Prasat Kravan, the Cardamom Sanctuary, built sometime in the 10th century. From what I read, Prasat Kravan is very much characteristic of the temples built during its time. The temple is longitudinal, with the five prasats, the towers, lining up side by side. What's astonishing about it are the carvings inside each prasat. This was the first temple we visited and we were already impressed with the architecture, the design and the workmanship.

Pre Rup

The next temple we visited was Pre Rup, "Turning the Corpse," so named after the discovery in the site of a sarcophagus, believed to be connected to a burial ritual involving cremation.



For this temple, there was some climbing involved. Some of the steps are quite narrow. So you would really have to sort of crawl your way up. One should take much caution, though. Much of the temple is already in ruins. You will see wooden planks and supports holding the structure together. Nevertheless, the view atop the temple, as with all the temples, we discovered, was amazing.


East Mebon

The next temple we visited was East Mebon. Yes, there is a West Mebon, but that was much farther. We were unable to spend much time here. We just came from climbing Pre Rup and was a little exhausted from the extreme heat of the Cambodian climate.


Standing outside of the temple, I generally thought that it looked like the Pre Rup. I discovered later on that both were built by the same Khmer king. And in fact, East Mebon was indeed built in the general style of Pre Rup. It does not in any way, though, diminish in grandeur.


Baksei Chamkrong

The next temple we climbed the next day was I think the hardest one. Baksei Chamkrong, "Bird with Sheltering Wings," had its staircase very steep and its steps very narrow.


It was quite high, too. Of course, when I got on the top, I saw how rewarding it was. The view of the temple from up there is quite something. I took it in first before I started clicking on my camera.


Phnom Bakheng

Yet the highest temple we were to climb during the whole trip was to come on our second day. Before you even get to the temple, you had to hike up this hill. The path has been laid out by the park authorities, though, so it was easier.


Due to its height, it was sort of the perfect spot to view the Cambodian sun setting. Apparently, everybody was in on this little fact. There was a bit of a crowd on the temple. So we were not able to do much. Besides, it was a bit cloudy that day. So there was not much sun to see set that evening.


At that point, it did not really matter. We have seen quite a lot of Siem Reap at that time and we have learned quite a lot already. There was still much to see, course. But if I was to leave that day, I would have done so quite satisfied.



* More photos from Cambodia: Siem Reap, the Early Period set available in my Flickr account: click here.

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Vietnam: Tunnels of Cu Chi

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WALK FLY PINOY:
Travel, Photography, Asia
www.walkflypinoy.com

During the Vietnam War, members of the Viet Cong guerrilla had to find safe hiding places and a way for them to go around without the American-backed South Vietnamese army detecting their every move. This necessity was what made the guerrilla army invent the now infamous Cu Chi Tunnels.


Located at the outskirts of Saigon, the Cu Chi district was where the Viet Cong chose to create their highly complex network of tunnels and bunkers. That way, our guide explained, they won't be too far from Saigon's city center but far enough for them to securely establish communication channels with their North Vietnamese backers.


The photo above shows just how complex the tunnel system was. All the area covered by the red color was the ground where the Cu Chi tunnels were dug. The black lines covering the red area are the tunnels. Right beside them is the Mekong River (in blue) which, due to the hilly topography of the Cu Chi district, never flooded the underground hideouts.


That was then, however. Now, the Cu Chi Tunnels have been made into a tourist attraction, sort of an outdoor museum, complete with film showing and exhibits. It is in fact one of the more touristy things to do in Saigon. Travel agencies will arrange for a bus and a guide to take you to the museum complex for around 7 to 8 USD, entrance passes included.


One of the more stand-out exhibits are the very creative traps concocted by the Viet Cong guerrilla. They have different sorts of booby traps, mostly involving sharp metal rods, designed to impale body parts and inflict the maximum pain onto their victims. They are not simple contraptions, no. Some would make you realize that these people really thought about the mechanics of pain. Not exaggerating.




Other exhibits will include that of museum workers demonstrating how life would have been back in the old days. A woman making rice paper, a man crafting and repairing sandals and footwear, old missiles and shells (which hopefully have been cleaned of their hazardous materials), etc.


And of course, there are the tunnels themselves. Some parts of the tunnel system have already been enlarged so as to accommodate even western tourists. One has to remember though that the Vietnamese are quite lean and thin. Their idea of "enlarged" is still quite small.

People with claustrophobia and weak knees are discouraged to go in. I understood why, actually. It can get pitch dark on some areas and at some point your knees will begin to strain from all the crouching.

All in all, I do think it is worth experiencing. One just has to remember though even if it is the actual site of the tunnels, what stands there now is a museum, a very touristy amusement park even. Surely, the tunnels now are far from what the Viet Cong guerrilla army used to have. One needs to realize that going into the whole Cu Chi Tunnel experience.

Related Posts:

10-Jun Vietnam: Surviving Saigon

11-Jun Vietnam: Sights in Saigon

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Vietnam: Sights in Saigon

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WALK FLY PINOY:
Travel, Photography, Asia
www.walkflypinoy.com

This trip to Vietnam is the first time I ever got out of the country. So hell yes, I'm going all-touristy. What better way to do that but to walk around Saigon and see the city's history through its architecture, from communist to Roman gothic to French colonial.


Walking around Saigon to visit the more touristy sites is not that difficult. The only setback is the heat. The tropical sun can be unforgiving. So wear light clothes and comfortable shoes. Start at the center, at Ben Thanh Market, and go northeast. That will take you to three of Saigon's landmarks: the palace, the basilica and the post office.


First stop, the communist palace. The Reunification Palace was the home and office of the President of South Vietnam during the war. The place is historically significant to say the least. On April 30, 1975, a North Vietnamese Army tank bulldozed through the palace's front gates, signaling the fall of Saigon and the end of the Vietnam War, almost twenty years after it started.


Next stop was Saigon's Roman gothic cathedral, the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica. From the Reunification Palace's front gates, you will see a glimpse of the church. Just cross the beautiful park separating the two and that's it. That is another thing to say about Saigon, by the way. Parks, they have lots of it. Well-maintained, too. And the trees in the parks, they use big tall ones.


Looking at the church would tell you that its design was very much European. Naturally so as it was built by the French during their colonial rule over much of Indochina. The church is beautiful inside and out. And the locals are fully aware of it. The morning we went there, there were at least three couples having their wedding pictorials in and around the cathedral.



Inside the cathedral, you will see little tombstones plastered on the wall. I am not really sure where the burial places are but the tombstones are there, surrounding the stained glass. The epitaphs on the tombstones were mostly in Vietnamese, some in French. Select ones would be in Portuguese and some other European language.



Right beside the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica is the very French colonial Saigon Central Post Office. The design was made by no other than Gustave Eiffel himself. This was my favorite of the three. The building had this old world, colonial charm which I very much appreciate.



When you go inside, it becomes easy to imagine how was it like back then, how alive it was when the French colonialists were still in Saigon. Messengers dropping and getting posts, journalists turning in the day's news. Many years have passed since the French has left Saigon. Yet, the post office felt very much alive.



There is much more to see in and around the city. Pity we only had half a day to go around. Their museums looks promising. With a history as colorful and as troubled as theirs, museum-hop would be a viable activity. I think we covered enough, though, as much as our time would allow us. I would definitely come back to see more.


Related Posts:

10-Jun Vietnam: Surviving Saigon

12-Jun Vietnam: Tunnels of Cu Chi

See the rest of the post here...