Lakbayan Update: Puerto Princesa

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Updating my Lakbayan map.


My Lakbayan grade is C.

Finally got to Puerto Princesa. The city is very clean. Tourist-friendly, too. Well-deserving of its reputation.

I really should make my way through Northern Luzon next. It is embarrassingly unshaded.

(To get your own Lakbayan grade and map, please visit this website, created by one Eugene Villar.)

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Puerto Princesa: The Baywalk

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The hotel we stayed in while in Puerto Princesa, Puerto Pension, had this restaurant on its highest floor. And since the hotel sits on top of a hill overlooking the Puerto Princesa Baywalk, the restaurant had a 360-degree view of the place. This view was what greeted us in the morning for breakfast. It was perfect.



This gave me the idea that maybe, I could shoot one of Palawan's famous sunsets from the Baywalk. However, on our boat ride back from exploring Honda Bay, we could see ominous rain clouds in the distance. I guess I would have to wait another time, another trip, before I get another chance to capture a Palaweño sunset. I was not hopeful, to say the least.


Still, though tired from all the beaches we visited the entire day, I dragged myself onto Puerto Princesa's Baywalk, just a few meters from our hotel. It was really cloudy that afternoon. Plus, I was not even sure if the the city's baywalk had sunsets, if it faces west. I went there still, tried to capture whatever was worth capturing.



Most of the people I saw on the baywalk were locals. The baywalk concludes their long day, I guess. I was about to conclude mine as well when I suddenly saw the colors of the "magic hour" come my way. Puerto Princesa's Baywalk do get sunsets, I was very happy to discover.


In my travels, I notice that a place rewards most those who are open enough and patient enough to stay with her. The point of traveling, I think, is for the traveler to open himself or herself up to new experiences, new sights, new people. You do miss a lot when you stay inside your comfort zones during your travels. Like this Puerto Princesa sunset, I am glad I witnessed it.

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Puerto Princesa: Honda Bay

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It was rainy the previous two days. So we were really banking on what locals were telling us that because Honda Bay was on the side of Palawan facing Sulu Sea, a much smaller body of water than the South China Sea on the other side, Honda Bay gets little to no rain. Thankfully, local knowledge didn't fail us.


Again, tour operators in Puerto Princesa are sort of centralized. Your hotel reception will know the people to contact to get you into a tour group and the people in charge in the tour group will know the procedures, permits to get, etc. Puerto Princesa is well set up for tourism like that.


The tour group we were on picked us up by van from our hotel and took us to the Honda Bay Port. On the port, our guide registers at the tourism desk and orders us a boat. A few minutes later, we were off.


Honda Bay is a relatively big body of water and the destinations, the islands we were hopping to, were sprawled around a wide area of sea. There were basically three destinations with one or two pit stops. The first, a pit stop, was Luli Island, named so because depending on the tides, it surfaces or it sinks. In Tagalog, lumulubog, lumilitaw. It was high tide when we got to Luli. Basically, we just passed through it.


Now, at this point, I may have already concluded that Puerto Princesa is a very touristy destination, which, I know, does not necessarily have to be a bad thing. It makes for a very easy-to-organize, safe family vacation. You would clearly feel that touristy air in this Honda Bay Island Hopping tour. More so, I think, in our next destination, Starfish Island.


Being Starfish Island, I would have guessed that there would be a lot of starfish on the beach here. I did not find any. The boatmen had some with them and apparently, the popular activity here was the distorted perspective photo-op thing. The photographer holds the starfish close to the camera while you, standing at a distance, pose like you're holding a giant starfish above your head. Something the kids would enjoy, I think.



Starsfish Island makes for a good swim, though. The water is crystal-clear and calm. It does entice you to get in and enjoy. The sand is white and fine, too. And the island had a long, partly submerged sandbar, which I always like.


We left Starfish Island at around 11:30 a.m., just in time for lunch at the next island destination, Snake Island. No, the island was not home to a huge population of snakes. Rather, the shape of it, the beach and the sandbar, snakes through the water.


Our guide told us to do whatever we want (beach bum, swim, snorkel, whatever), while she prepares the lunch. Yes, lunch is included in the tour cost. And what was lunch? Fresh, freshly grilled fish, shrimps and liempo with adobo eggplant on the side. The kind of foods that tastes best when eaten on a beach.


We stayed the longest on Snake Island, I think. Because after lunch, being full and all, nobody wanted to do anything, naturally. So, we walked further from the beach, settled on a sand bar away from the crowd, and had our this-is-the-life moment. It was sweet.


The last island we were to visit on this trip was Pandan Island. Our guide tells us that this is where a lot of colorful fish and coral reefs are located, the best site yet for snorkeling. Local knowledge succeeded again. At this point, I decided to put down my camera and enjoy the beach one last time. It would be a while before I go to another one. I am glad I made the right decision.

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Puerto Princesa: Sabang and the Underground River

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Sabang Town, on the outskirts of Puerto Princesa around two hours drive from the city, looks like the usual small fishing village I have seen a number of times throughout the country. It has one teeny tiny difference, though. It has a UNESCO World Heritage Site under its belt.


The entrance to Palawan's Underground River National Park is located in a cove about 30 minutes by boat from Sabang Beach. The beach is on the side of Palawan facing the South China Sea, definitely a much bigger body of water than the Sulu Sea. Naturally, this is the part of the province that gets the gloomy weather.


We arrived at Sabang Beach around lunch time. Restaurants line the beach, so this is where most, if not all, visitors to the river would have their midday meal. It was around this time, though, when our luck in the weather department run out. It had been cloudy earlier but we were still counting on sunny weather, obviously a little foolish, looking back. It did not stop people from swimming on the wide beautiful beach, though.


Most locals tell us that their rains usually last for just about one to two hours a day. Some part of me did not believe them. But impeccably so, the rains did stop after about an hour, allowing some of us to get out our cameras and try to capture Palawan's rainy day charm.






It started raining again when we arrived at the registration desk of the Underground River National Park, forcing me to keep my non-waterproof camera inside its waterproof bag and then wrapping that with plastic bags. I knew I was pushing it still hoping I was going to take pictures of the site.

No, I did not take the risk. Which is okay really. I doubt I would have been able to capture the enormity of what I was experiencing under that limestone mountain anyway.

In fact, I don't think I have seen a travel show capture the sights in and around that river. The caverns you would be passing through while on the 45-minute boat ride were just too grand to be photographed or filmed by any ordinary equipment. It is a sight to behold. And it is a must-do activity, touristy as it is, not just in Palawan but in the country.

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Puerto Princesa: Ugong Rock

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Summer was clearly over and we completely knew it. The weather has been gloomy all over the country and rains have been happening almost everyday. We, however, still went on with it. Puerto Princesa on a rainy August. And the answer is yes. Palawan is a rewarding place, rain or shine.


The first activity I went on was the day trip to the very famous Subterranean River National Park. The park is actually a two-hour drive from the city center. Naturaly, there are stops along the way. One of them is the Ugong Rock Cave, named so due to the sound the rock produces when you knock onto it.


Ugong Rock is actually a limestone cliff, caves and burrows inside of it, located smack in the middle of rice fields and plantations. The limestone is similar to those I've seen jutting out the water in the bays of Coron, also in Palawan. Our guides explain that, geologically speaking, that whole area used to be submerged in water.


Our guides, by the way, are part of the local cooperative managing the site. They say its sustainable tourism. It aims to preserve the environment and local culture, while still providing employment and a source of income for the local community. And you'll see lots of that in Puerto Princesa, which is highly inspiring, to say the least.


The fee for the cave exploration is 200 pesos per head. It includes rent for the helmets and gloves you'll be needing once inside. It's inclusive of the guides' fees, too. And you'll need them more than you realize. The cave starts off easy enough, until you get to some treacherous climbs (just ropes, no carabiners and support around your body) as well as to some stone creaks and holes. Challenging? Yes. Quite an experience? Absolutely.


After about 45 minutes to an hour, you will reach the top of the cliff. A viewing deck has been constructed there and it provides respite for the climbers after their most harrowing experience. That is, before they make their way back down, through the same creaks and holes they passed through. Bummer, I know. Our guides say that soon, a zip line will be constructed from the viewing deck to the ground below. And I would very much appreciate that.


Still, despite the cuts on the elbows and the muscles pulled, I would still recommend that people visit the site. It's support for the local community, for one. It is also a very rewarding experience, much like Palawan is, as I would further discover.

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Coron: Sights and Sunsets at Kayangan

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One of the last places we visited in Coron, Palawan is Kayangan Lake. Said to be one of the cleanest lakes in the Philippines, Kayangan, as with most lakes in the area, is actually part salt water and part fresh water. The fresh water, we were told, comes from the hills and the tall limestone cliffs that enclose the lakes.


The lake is on the other side of a steep mountain. So, to get to the actual lake, you had to climb up this mountain. They have built a staircase there, so it's very accessible. The downside is, it's very accessible. This means a whole lot of tourists. I do think, however, that the lake is spacious enough for many people. So the swim there is still very much enjoyable.


I have to be honest. None of the pictures here are of Kayangan Lake itself. The pictures here are actually of the views you see going to and from the lake. There were these huts you see as you approach the staircase. The contrast in the colors of these huts and the crystalline turquoise water was to me very bizarre, interesting and at the same time, amazing.


There are other lakes and lagoons in these parts worth mentioning. One of them is Barracuda Lake. Not many people can access it because to get there you have to climb up and down very sharp rock boulders. No staircases. Very dangerous. I was even advised to not bring my camera with me, which was fine. But when we got there, I felt like we discovered a hidden gem. We were the only ones in that vast blue-green water. I even went cliff jumping there. Amazing. It was truly an outstanding experience.


After touring Coron island, it was time to get back to Coron town. At this time, the sun was already setting. We were already on the boat by then, cruising our way through the water. This was fortunate, because we got to see one pretty unforgettable sunset Coron had to offer. That was our last day there. And the sunset was the perfect ending to our wonderful trip.



For other Coron-related posts and photos, please see:
Coron: Boulders at Banol
Coron: Waddling around CYC Beach
Coron: Lusong at Sangat
Coron: Exploring the Town

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Coron: Boulders at Banol Beach

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On our third day in Coron, Palawan, we visited an amazing white-sand beach. On our way there, I asked our local guide/slash/tour arranger/slash/lunch provider if it was a private beach. He answered yes. Bummer. He then continued that it was owned by indigenous Mangyan tribes. I was relieved.


We arrived at Banol Beach (that's its name) just in time for lunch. We settled on a hut and had our hearty lunch there. We were lucky we had arrived before a number of other boats and tourists got there. We were able to have the beach to ourselves for at least an hour.


The place had these huge rock boulders sprawled around. The beach is not that vast, really. The place, in fact, is in a cove, bordered by huge rock mountains. It didn't stop the local Mangyans, though, from calling it home. I guess the huts and the tables are theirs. When we got there, some of them were also preparing their lunch. I even overheard some chatting with tourists, teaching them some local words and expressions.


It's really obvious what charms the place has: powdery white sand and crystal-clear turquoise water. There's plenty of that in Coron, I noticed. The places are the kind you see in travel magazines. the kind you look at and say, I want to go there.


After lunch, we explored the beach more. On the other side are more huts, which by the time we discovered them, were already occupied by tourists. It didn't matter really, because on this side of the island are these flower-bearing trees. I am not really sure what kind were they, but obviously they are a beautiful compliment to the gorgeous beach.



For other Coron-related posts, please see:
Coron: Sights and Sunsets at Kayangan
Coron: Waddling around CYC Beach
Coron: Lusong at Sangat
Coron: Exploring the Town

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Coron: Waddling at CYC Beach

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The Coron Youth Club (CYC) beach can be found in a very small islet, still a part of the larger Coron Island. We went here on our second day in Coron. It was our first stop and it did not disappoint.


As we approached the island, it surprised me that there was this woman already far from the beach, and yet, the water reached only up to her waist. I realized, as we got nearer, that most of the beach is actually under shallow water. Which was amazing.


The water is so shallow that our boat, in fact, could not get near the island. The area was not deep enough for it. So, they dropped us off a few meters a way and we just waddled our way to the beach.


We were fortunate enough that only one small group of tourists was there when we arrived. And the place is large enough to contain us all. We had a one side of the island all to ourselves.


There is quite a number of trees on the island, some of which lay dead on the shallow beach. They are quite beautiful fixtures to the place. Plus, they make for good photos.



For other Coron-related posts and photos, please see:
Coron: Sights and Sunsets at Kayangan
Coron: Boulders at Banol
Coron: Lusong at Sangat
Coron: Exploring the Town

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Coron: Lusong and Sangat

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We were in Coron, Palawan for four days and three nights. As I mentioned in my previous post, the town has a bay, not a beach. You have to arrange for an island-hopping tour of the whole archipelago to get to these beaches, and to all other snorkel sites, lakes, etc. that Coron island also offers tourists.


On our second day, we went to Lusong. There they have a coral garden and a wreck of a WWII Japanese vessel. It's underwater, of course. It was the first time I or any of my travel companions ever saw a shipwreck. It was scary and creepy, yet exciting. Unfortunately, nobody had an underwater camera. So boo to us. I, though, was able to take a photo of the coral garden, from above the water, of course. It still amazes me how crystal clear the waters are there. Amazing.


The tour we paid for also includes a very hearty lunch. Pinoy-style fish steak, grilled porkchops, some greens, some fruits for dessert. Yeah, family style lunch. What's even better is that we had it on a secluded tropical paradise--the Sangat Island Reserve.


There is a resort in the island, which, it seemed to me, catered only to foreigners. I think there were less locals than foreigners in that resort, and I'm including the resort staff here. It isn't odd, really. The island seemed like the place you'd find in James Bond movies, where expat criminals would hide and lie low.


The resort is so secluded, so quiet, so peaceful. It was already noon and save for this little girl and her dad, we were the only ones standing in that long stretch of white-sand beach. So I thought, why didn't we choose to stay here? Ah, yes. Accomodations in the island is rather steep for our yuppie budgets. See for yourself here in their website: Sangat Island Reserve.


Exhausted from the hearty lunch we just had, we rested in the hammocks by the beach. We had our "ah...this is the life" moment. I wanted to take more pictures but damn, the camera's battery was running out of power. When that happens, it automatically shuts down the shutter. So, no more picture-taking!


We spent the rest of the early afternoon exploring the reserve. At the end of the beach, we found a rock cliff. What's neat is that they've built a wooden footbridge along the face of that cliff. Below the footbridge are rocks, pretty sharp ones, and the blue-green waters of that cove.

At one point along the bridge, you get a 180-degree view of the pristine waters of the island. It's one of the most amazing views I've ever had. I need to go back there to take a photo of it. I want to take it back with me to Manila to remind myself of that breathtaking natural beauty.

For other Coron-related posts and photos, please see:
Coron: Sights and Sunsets at Kayangan
Coron: Boulders at Banol
Coron: Waddling around CYC Beach
Coron: Exploring the Town

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